Aso-Oke is the iconic hand woven strip fabric of the Yoruba. Produced on narrow looms, predominantly by men, originally it is instantly recognisable. Its strips based on cotton and silk threads are joined to make those elaborate ensembles worn for important events and ceremonies in Yoruba culture.
When I set off from Lagos, long before dawn, almost 4 decades ago, headed towards Ibadan, my mission was to acquire the finest examples I could find of Aso-Oke.
I was leaving the country to begin a new life and I wanted to have the best of Nigerian fabric with me. I already had Akwete from Eastern Nigeria, I had inherited a beautiful hand woven and hand embroidered northern Nigerian Baban Riga from my father. I needed some Aso-Oke that was either :-
Sayan – local wild silk wild in tan and beige
Etu -Indigo dyed cotton yarn and
Alaari – that came in rich colours like Magenta coloured imported silk and or any other of the many examples of this iconic Yoruba textile.
What I did find from my foray that early morning in 1989 was vintage even then. These second hand well preserved pieces were lighter in weight, and of a finer consistency than what is widely available today.
I found the Sayan that I ended up wearing at my wedding, two types of Etu, and rolls of gold lurex strips and one in a pale solid cream that had the look and feel of raw silk. One of the Etu pieces I found had the multi -dimensional patterns now referred to as Kente.
Even then Aso-Oke weavers were quick to introduce new patterns into their and to keep up with modern fashion trends. That same dynamism continues today with wider looms, contemporary dyes including fluorescent colours and new synthetic yarns.
Today you can still custom order your design and specify colour schemes for your event, selecting different fabric widths to suit your trousseau, identify your family or dress your groomsmen.
Aso-Oke is now available in thicker, wider strips, with stiffer drape and texture. Nigerian designers are employing the fabric in hand bags, décor, totes, ponchos, capes, kimonos and cargo pants, as well as Western tailored suits.
Our Oma pantsuit is a tailored style in a shape that suits a variety of body types.
This Pantsuit is a design statement that combines Nigerian flare, literally in its silhouette and contemporary functionality.
The broad straight pants are versatile and flattering to a wide range of body types.
We use indigo dyed aso-oke strips known as Etu, in a weave that echoes the Nigerian version of a hand woven delicate pinstripe composed of joined strips of fabric. It is, of necessity, tailored: A must if you are essentially reconstituting narrow strips of fabric to produce a garment that will lend itself to both work and social wear.
The fitted top declines the use of boning making for body ease in a day to night style. The one shoulder drape echoes the pele, (over the shoulder shawl) that is part of the Yoruba womenswear ensemble and an example of the versatility of hand woven cloth reassembled to make it function like whole cloth without wastage.
You can shop the Oma top and Oma pants available as separates.
Shop the Oma top
